Thursday, 19 January 2017

May 29th 2016

Hi folks,

This is day 18 and we still haven't started the engine!
The Bimini fitting is completed, the carpets laid, the windows washed (26 panes and 3 skylights),
 the interior re-painted 2 coats, 12 smart new black fenders bought and fitted, the mechanical checks complete, 
the moorings paid up for the year, Sue laid in vast quantities of wine boxes (3!), water and fuel tanks full and 
take her to sea if you would be so kind Captain Simpson.
I get up at 0630 ready to start the 'grand voyage' and what happens?
A vast Atlantic low hits central France with thunder lightning and massive hailstorms
(see attached photos of apocalypse (and yours truly on the front cover- not related by the way).
The hail  destroyed this years crop of Chablis grapevines in some of the local villages and carpeted
roads and towns alike in a thick carpet of white ice. lets hope they're insured and that the b......s that dug up
and stole 150 Chablis vines last week were also destroyed.

Huge downpours of rain keep occurring at all hours of day and night and are projected well into next week
so we're taking a few days well-earned rest after all the hard work and enjoying this wonderful mooring right
in the centre of the elegant Auxerre waterfront with its cathedrals, cafes and gardens along the esplanade
(prom to you and me).

Although certain aspects of French life can be annoying or downright infuriating for instance needing a
carte d'identite to buy a replacement gas cylinder or a SIM card, and the constant blare of car horns every
Saturday afternoon as wedding processions of up to 20 cars continually circle the town hooting frantically until
you are at screaming pitch, or the couple are dispatched to their honeymoon.But the advantages far outweigh
 these minor inconveniences and life is great as long as you go with the flow and don't try to impose your own
habits and schedules on a way of life that hasn't changed for centuries.

Hospitality has been the theme of the week: three examples:

 1.Last year we moored for about a month to shelter from the incredible heat as the thermometer climbed to
100F, under an overhanging tree in the garden of a restaurant newly owned by a young couple Olivier and
Stephanie and their 2 young daughters. We all became quite close, eating there regularly and getting kisses
on both cheeks each time. This time we paid them a surprise visit in midweek, for lunch. We approached the
doorway to the kitchen,and also the restaurant which we were pleased to see was quite busy. There was a
sudden scream and Stephanie launched herself on us with tears and kisses which went on until Olivier came 
to see what all the fuss was about. When he saw us he started jumping up and down (he is of Spanish descent 
and lived in Marseilles previously) and shouting 'meester John, meesterJohn' and instead of a manhug I was 
engulfed in a huge bearhug and a tidal wave of kisses on my left cheek. When these finished he changed 
grip and started again on the right cheek (then he moved on to Sue.) It was all very moving and all four of us 
had tears in our eyes before we sat down to eat the 'Menu du jour ' When we finally left over 2 hours later they 
wouldn't accept payment so we left 'tips for the waitresses' - their 2 small daughters Daphne and Paloma who 
were at school that day. The warm glow lasted all week.

2. Around 11 this morning we sat outside at a busycafe in the square up in the town and had  2 Grand Cremes
(coffees). The owner delivered 2 large cups of black coffee and carefully scooped out the frothy hot milk from a
metal jug into each cup. About 10 minutes later he approached with a tray of freshly-cooked warm 
'madeleines' biscuits perfectly cooked with sponge below, crispy on top and a slightly lemony flavour. 
He explained these were on the house (although we were total strangers).
As I paid the 6 Euros (about £4) I complimented him on the madeleines and he explained they had oranges
squeezed into the mixture for the special flavour. All for £2 per cup. We love this country!

3. An elderly (like us) French couple Robert and Anik invited us to aperitifs at 6.30 (or 1830 as Europeans
call it) along with 2 other English couples and Jean-Philippe the port engineer. An invitation to aperitif in
France is NEVER an invitation to dinner and normally you are expected tp leave around 7.30 to 8 and go
home to eat dinner.
We were both exhausted so I said to Sue 'We'll just have a quick drink to be polite and go over to the
restaurant on the opposite bank' (which I had booked).
We arrived with apologies at 6.40 and were the only ones there. A table was set on the bank and Anita
gradually loaded it , first with the usual nibbles and then as people arrived this escalated into hot thin tarts
from Alsace, pizzas, crab sticks,ham dishes and all manner of foodstuffs and wines followed by 2 bottles of
champagne. I sat between the hosts who knew no English and the English trying out schoolboy/girl French
so I was quite busy but everyone seemed to make a lot of noise and we staggered home at 11 o'clock. Just
when we thought we knew the rules they were turned upside down.

The beggar sitting cross-legged outside the Boulangerie chewing a croissant offered Laddie a bite, first asking
my permission. I said thanks but he won't eat it without butter and jam. Laddie scoffed it straight down, the
traitor. When I came out with my croissants and baguettes I gave him a Euro. The beggar that is.

Hope this is not too boring. To stop it coming please send money (or comments)

Love to all

John and Sue

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