Thursday, 24 May 2018

Post 1 of 2018 May 24th


‘Allo mes amis, a new boating season 2018 has started.’

We left on Tuesday 8th May after one of the hottest May days on record.
I cannot adequately describe the pure joy of leaving behind the horror of the nose-to-tail potholed rat-race motorways en route to Ashford, Kent and gliding smoothly and quietly through the lush green countryside of northern France where traffic density is virtually unknown and on perfect road surfaces. No tailgating, no potholes, no aggro. And no litter! (have you been down the A1 lately?)We could feel the tension ebbing away as we motored less than an hour to our country hotel to let Laddie and me stretch our legs in the large garden before dinner.

I’m sorry, but you have to drive on a French motorway to realise how appalling our roads are, and how overcrowded  much of Britain is. OK it cost us 30 Euros in total by the end of our journey over two days to central Burgundy, but worth every centime for our wellbeing (and safety).

On arrival in our home port of St. Florentin, we drove through the security gate and pulled up by our boat, moored close to some picnic benches on the grassy area nearby. There sat a group of 5 or 6 of our French friends (the usual suspects, all in their sixties and seventies, who come down to the marina to sit and chat most afternoons and generally chill out and have a laugh with us when we’re here.)

Cries of greeting came over as we got out of the car and I approached with arms outstretched, braced for the inevitable kisses and hugs. Nothing happened. ‘Laddie! They cried. Laddies back!!’ Once they’d stopped hugging and kissing Laddie it was out turn and we were really made welcome, which was very flattering.
For the next hour or so they threw the ball for Laddie while we started to unpack.

Today, Monday 21st it’s another public holiday ( we’ve only just got past the V-E day and Ascension Day holidays which bridge together to form a full week) and the group have just arrived 2-30pm  and 25 degrees, to sit in the shade and play with Laddie.
When I commented on the good weather one of the older guys asked me what the fog was like in England. Fortunately I had a copy of last Tuesday’s Times with me and I showed them the photo of thousands of people crowded almost shoulder to shoulder on Bournemouth beach with the temperature at 27 degrees. ‘Ooh-la -la’ was the response - nuff said.

Every day I have been asked if I am going to The Wedding, as it’s totally dominated the news and the conversations over here. They are so jealous and full of admiration for our Royal Family and full of regret to have lost theirs and part of their self-esteem wit it apparently. TV coverage was immense although we didn’t get to see more than 5 minutes as we can’t get telly easily. (Long story but BBC officially not available). Lady Di is pictured frequently in the newspapers even now.
I was invited by my friend Vincent, the Port Manager to come and watch the football and eat Pizza with other people in the port office last Saturday night. Oh, you mean for the UK cup final? I said hopefully, ready to accept.
‘No, it’s the final day of the French League’
‘Ah, no thanks, we had pizza last night’………..

I continue …….

Next morning I set out for the boulangerie, around 8.30 as usual, and went to shake hands (I have to do this with at least 6 people some mornings before I can get to my car in the compound) with Vincent, a Marseilles supporter.
‘Eh, bien?’
Long face.
‘They lost??’
‘No they won, but so did the others (Lyon)’
‘How was the Pizza?
‘Meh!’
‘OK, do you want a croissant?’
‘OK, breeng me one pleez.’

I set off on my lucrative bread and croissant delivery run. As the supermarket is on the very edge of the town at the top of a long and massive hill, and our Australian neighbours and other visitors on boats only have small bikes they’re so extremely grateful for me fetching the day’s supply of baguettes, croissants and pain au chocolat that they throw extra money at me so they don’t have to pedal up the hill before breakfast. A lot of fun as I get to speak with various nationalities. This week it was French-speaking Quebecois (Canada), a Berliner married to a Czech as well as Aussies and French.

We’re currently waiting for a seal for the toilet which broke down and leaked on arrival and still is, but the engineer shrugs and it will arrive ‘bientôt’ like everything here. There is no such thing as next day or even next week guaranteed service. The favourite word is ‘normalement’ it should be here, followed by a false promise. In the meantime we learn to shrug, eat well, enjoy the wine and sunshine and put our wellies on to go to the bathroom!

Yesterday we saw two ducks near us while we were on top deck having breakfast so Sue threw some bread for them and we went out for an hour or so. When we got back my French neighbour opposite was desperate to tell me something. Apparently a huge fish called a Silure had jumped up and swallowed one of the ducks in one go. It was broad daylight and I don’t think he had been drinking so we had to believe it. These fish are as big as a man with large mouths, obviously.

Two things about France haven’t changed.
First they kill themselves on the roads in a ratio to 2 to 1 with UK- 3000 per year to our 1500. A 45 year old motorcyclist was killed in a nearby village the other day when an 81 year old car driver came out of a side road without stopping, because he had ‘prorité à droite’ which technically means the law is on his side. The biker was the 9th to die in this area alone this year. 16 ‘pompiers’ firemen/emergency ambulances and whatever attended including some from towns and villages miles away, plus 6 gendarmes from different places, plus the  coordinators of all these services as well as a colonel who was in charge. How come France has 10% unemployment?

Two days earlier I was driving in Auxerre on a main road between 2 supermarkets when a car shot out from a 90 degree side road on my right without even slowing down, or possibly even looking, and caused me to brake. When I looked up the car had a sign on the roof ‘Auto Ecole’ and I could see a driver and passenger, presumably instructor and pupil carrying on as if nothing had happened. They are so determined to prove this crazy law is on their side they’re prepared to risk accidents and possibly injury or death for themselves and others. Like the gun lobby in the States.

From 1st July the speed limit on country roads will be reduced to 70 kms/hr so the backlash will be interesting, especially from truckers. The alcohol limit in UK is 35mg, but 50mg in France. If you eat at a Routiers restaurant in France along the main trunk roads it’s full of truckers and, for around 10 euros, you get several courses of excellent home-made food (no choice of menu). Jugs of wine are placed in the middle of long tables and can be re-filled from a barrel on the side. No extra charge involved for the wine. After 2 o’clock its back to the trucks and off we go again. Woe betide you if one comes up behind you and you don’t accelerate (these are 2-way roads where half the deaths occur so stay on the Autoroute where possible and pay to survive.)

Once you’re caught drink-driving and lose your licence, no problem, just go and buy a small VSP (Voiture Sans Permis) – no licence needed and as one of our crowd told me yesterday ‘It’s great you can just drive past the ‘flic’ (copper) and stick two fingers up. These cars rattle like a bag of broken spanners, but they are expensive. ‘Serves them right I said, they are criminals in any other country’ I think they agreed with me! Tomorrow I will tell them I think Macron’s wonderful and see what happens.

SAYING OF THE MONTH : Les doigts dans le nez (not what you think)

Yesterday I reversed the boat from our mooring alongside the canal, into a crowded marina avoiding several expensive boats and smoothly into our berth inside the marina, all backwards. Vincent told me in French you did that ‘the fingers up the nose’. What??? Equivalent of ‘as easy as falling off a log’ or similar expression’
Can’t wait for another opportunity to use it.


Alors il fait chaud et j’ai soif. 29 -31 degrees forecast this weekend.

 A bientôt

John and Sue

Blue Moon

PS. Pictures of impromptu BBQ organised by Vincent (Port manager) at 2 hours’ notice ‘because it’s going to rain for the next three days (and it did). Anglo French ‘fête champêtre’ with much, much laughter and bonhomie.


 And this is a google imgae of a 'silure'